Paul Klenk | The Official Site

December 12, 2009 – Part of Julia Child’s charm is that she nonchalantly became her own authority. One of my favorite quotes is her description of her “brand-new, super-duper” Chocolate Mousse Dessert Cake:

“And here it is: Le Gâteau Victoire au Chocolat, Mousseline! One of the great chocolate cakes of all time, according to me.”

Not, “in my opinion,” but “according to me.” Who says that? A master citing herself, that’s who.

She restates this notion of self-authority in the same television segment, a guide to an intimate tableside cooking of Steak Diane:

“So, as I said at the beginning before we started cooking, I think this is a nifty little dinner (and I really agree with myself) for a chafing dish dinner.”

The menu (which she pronounces “may-noo”) of this very simple feast includes:

• A cold first course, a ceviche [“sev-EE-chee”] of scallops, with fresh artichoke bottoms
• Steak Diane (“cooked in a chafing dish, right at the table”)
• Mashed potatoes, “made out of actual potatoes, which is a rare thing” (rare in 1978, I guess)
• Fresh peas
• The cake, made with a full pound of chocolate

Child must have imbibed quite a bit of alcohol on a daily basis, I think. I cannot believe that someone whose recipes and menus included such a prodigious amount of spirits, and a kitchen so well-stocked with them, did not start drinking around lunchtime.

For this meal alone, the following alcohols are used:

As ingredients:

• For the cake, rum.
• For the steak’s sauce, “a little bit of Madeira or port… [plus] a few drops of cognac” added at the last minute for taste. (“That never hurt anything.”)

Served with the meal:

• “With the Steak Diane, I would serve a nice red Bordeaux, or a cabernet, and with the first course, the ceviche, you could serve a chablis or Riesling.”
• And with the dessert, “a fine bottle of vintage champagne, maybe one of the great California wines.”

Bon appétit, à la vôtre, and enjoy the video.



– p.k.